after an eighthour ride in the night train we arrived at the dali train station which is in the suburb of the new city of dali we had made hotel bookings to stay in old dali a nice and quiet old town about fourteen kilometers north of new dali it took us thirty minutes by bus to get to our hotel
it was still quite early in the morning we checked in had a shower and then went outside to try some local snack for breakfast since we had managed to get some sleep on the night train we were all ready for the day's event around nine thirty we caught a local bus and set out for our destination the small town of xizhou
xizhou is a bai town seventeen kilometers north of old dali this place is wellknown for its many old protected houses and courtyards that survived from the late ming and the qing dynasties the bai people in xizhou are a special breed of the bai community they have been constantly referred to as the jews of the bai a label which all townsfolk happily take to be an honor for it is really a recognition of their gift and skills in making successful business deals now and in the past
from 1920s to 1949 there existed about 400 families in xizhou all engaged in running some sort of private businesses it was said 200 of the families kept shops locally or in other parts of yunnan while the other 200 traveled across the country to buy and sell and some powerful families even made their way as far as the whole of southeast asia and the subcontinent of india they traded in a variety of things gold silver pearls jade cotton silk natural minerals medicinal herbs tobacco opium and so on over a few decades the merchants from xizhou had built up a great fame and wealth with which they also built nice houses with open courtyards
by what the locals said there were the great four middle eight and minor twelve families all were wellestablished big merchant firms in the past the top one of the great four the yans' family imported 2000 american dodge cars at one go in the late 1940s at the end of 1949 the communist government came into power and demanded to come into partnerships with the merchant firms so assessments were made of all the rich families and firms all the property of the yans' family both at home and abroad amounted to be over thirtytwo billion yuan at that time
dali has been frequently hit by earthquakes in history so the bai people had learnt to build their houses in twostoried structures the most popular layout of a residential building is an open courtyard with houses on three sides and a whitewashed screen wall on the fourth side each side of the building is twostoried with three rooms upstairs and three rooms downstairs the middle room downstairs is the living room where the host sees their visitors and guests having a cup of tea and smoking a pipe over a nice chat sealed up and invisible at the rear of that room is a stairway leading to the middle room upstairs in which the family ancestral shrines are kept the rest of the rooms are used then as bedrooms
at the four corners of the building complex there are usually another four corner courtyards these are much smaller ones used mainly as space for storage or the kitchen one of the corner courtyards would be spared to function as the first gate which opens up to the outside lane or alleyway for the sake of privacy the second gate should be opened on a different wall of the same corner courtyard thus no passersby can peer directly into the life in the big courtyard
all the open courtyards are paved with stone slates the top part of the walls elaborately decorated with nice ink paintings wooden doors come with carving of auspicious motifs and symbols what impressed us the most were the many potted flowers it seemed all the families are happy to have flowers in their courtyard and they try to pick up specific species that would respectively come in bloom in different seasons
we visited the courtyard of one of the middle eight the house of the zhaos' a 200meter winding alleyway took us to its secluded premises this complex consists of two parts four connecting courtyards to the left wing which were built in the qing dynasty and a single row of connecting rooms to the right wing which were done in the ming dynasty each courtyard is in rectangular shape with houses erected in the qing dynasty on three sides while the ming part stands to the fourth side the sheltered corridor under the eaves of the ming rooms links up with left wing and serves as an arched passageway leading to each of the courtyards this is a lovely quite isolation in which we believe all residents could enjoy the tranquility and live up to advanced ages
it was past midday after we have visited four old courtyards and spent much time having a chat with the families though there still remained a lot more we wanted to know about this place we decided to give it a miss and go for lunch in the village square
we had xizhou baba (baba is a local word for cake or bread) to satisfy our hunger the locals roll out the pastry and put them in large flat cooking pans and then heat them up with charcoal fires from underneath and above the baba takes only a few minutes to cook xizhou baba comes in two tastes one is salty with minced pork and scallions the other is sweet with brown sugar and finely chopped rose petals both are delicious this is one of the best snacks i had for my time in dali
that was a wonderful day
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